I’m now in my initial stages of pattern cutting and toiling. I chose to start with my bustier/corset shape as this shape runs the same throughout the collection. At first I was going to use a traditional corset pattern piece to make a block and use that but decided this wasn’t the right shape as im looking to create a more bustier shape with cups. I find flat pattern cutting quite challenging at times and decided that working on the stand was better suited to me and my strength and also this particular shape.
Stage one- I used sticky modelling tape to create the ideal shape of the bodice and cups free hand, then measured each section to make sure each line was even.
Stage two– I then started the process of using calico to mold the shapes on the stand onto fabric. I’ve done this method previously and feel the outcome is always best as you get the exact shape you have designed and created on the stand. Once I got the modelling the cups I had decided wear I wanted a seam due to the extremely curved shape of the bust. My options were a basic downward facing dart, seam going sideways across the bust or a straight seam going down the cup. I chose the traditional bustier cup seam going horizontally across the cups.
Stage three- I then transferred these to new calico and added seam allowances and re cut the pieces and sowed them together as a half toile to see the fit on the stand. I feel this went very successful and a perfect fit and will be using this as my final pattern for two of my garments.